CHANDELAO GARH, JODHPUR

Experience the “real” India with a visit to Chandelao Garh. Only 40 km from bustling Jodhpur this highly rated hotel will enfold you in a different world – the world of the rulers of Rajasthan in a traditional village. Majestic Chandelao Garh is the ancestral home of the landowners of the area, and has been tastefully converted to a modern hotel. But do not expect telephones and televisions – the Garh will provide you with an authentic experience of traditional Rajasthani hospitality in a tranquil village setting.

Chandelao Garh was the seat of the Chandelao Thikana - an estate in the kingdom of Jodhpur. At its peak, Chandelao Thikana covered five villages. From the garh - or "kot" in the local language - the affairs of the estate were administered.

The Chandelao family belongs to the Rathore clan and to the subclan Kumpawat, or "the sons of Kumpa". Rao Kumpa was one of the greatest generals of Marwar, as the princely state of Jodhpur was known. The Maharajah of Jodhpur is the chief of the Rathore clan. The present Thakur and your host at Chandelao Garh - Praduman Singh Rathore - is the 16th in line from Rao Kumpa. Rao Kumpa was one of two Marwari generals who led 6,000 soldiers against the 80,000 troops of Sher Shah Suri, the Afghan ruler of Delhi in the battle of Sumelgiri in 1544 A.D. Rao Kumpa nearly won the battle, but was killed. Seeing this brave Rajput General, Emperor Sher Shah Suri said, "for a handful of bajra, I nearly lost the kingdom of Hindustan". His meaning was that he nearly lost his entire kingdom for the small gain of a victory over Marwar, which he compared to a handful of millet.

Chandelao Garh was built in 1744 by Rao Kumpa's grandson Rao Puranmal who had annexed Sirohi for the Maharajah of Jodhpur. The estate was granted by the Maharajah to Rao Puranmal for his bravery in battle and for providing a small cavalry for the Maharajah's army. In return for the estate, the Thakur maintained 8 horses for the Maharajah's cavalry and was himself expected to take part in any battles.

The revenue for the Chandelao Thikana came from the land it ruled. The farmers would cultivate the fields for the Thakur and in return would receive a share of the harvest. The shepherds were allowed to let their animals graze on the land in return for a share of their herd. In 1952, five years after Indian Independence, this feudal system was abolished. Land reforms were passed, and most of the land was allotted to the tenants. Further reforms in 1972 abolished feudal titles and redistributed most of the remaining land.

The central building of Chandelao Garh is the oldest and was built in 1744. This is the "raola", or the main living quarters. At that time the central building was surrounded by mud walls for protection. Later Thakurs added various elements of construction to the Garh, including the current high stone walls which were constructed in the early 19th century. Most of the Garh stands as it was constructed - except for the gate. It was reconstructed by Thakur Ugam Singh on the occasion of the marriage of his son, Kr. Umaid Singh, at the beginning of the 20th century. Umaid Singh could not ride through the gate seated on an elephant, so the Thakur ordered the gate to be rebuilt and replaced with a larger one so that a man sitting in a howdah on the back of an elephant could pass through!

Indian Historical Hospitality

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The hotel has 23 double rooms, each room, carefully but simply decorated and furnished with antiques. Beds are comfortable and covered with hand-embroidered Rajasthani bedspreads. Blankets and quilts are available for when the nights turn chilly. All the rooms are provided with air-conditioners. Every room has a spotless private en-suite bathroom. Each room is different and has a story for example room no 9 was the old toshakhana where the valuables were kept. There is a secret place in the room, see if you can find it.

24 Hours

Do not expect tennis courts, gift shops and swimming pools at Chandelao Garh. Here one learns to savour life's simpler pleasures. On the upper level of the central building, a sitting room with comfortable chairs and a small library is an excellent spot for reading. The tiger and leopard skin floor-rugs recall the atmosphere of old India. The terrace is furnished with comfortable cane chairs where you can enjoy conversation and relaxation with friends old and new. Walk up to the terrace above the gatehouse for magnificent views of the village and the Rajasthani countryside. The grassy central square of the courtyard makes a safe and protected area for children to play and there are many interesting corners for them to explore. Bird lovers will enjoy a stroll round the courtyard, and may be rewarded by sightings of many beautiful and colourful birds including peafowl, parakeets, bulbuls, rollers, bee-eaters, and hoopoes.

Chandelao is 37 km from Jodhpur Airport and 40 km from City Center.

37 KM